The cheese trolley is broken at [Philadelphia's] Le Bec-Fin. And that's not all. No, the fact that its crystal lid had long since been replaced by plexiglass [sic] that split across the rear like a cheap suit was only a fraction of what was bothering me here. The clueless server, scowling with faux gravitas, had rolled it up to our table backward, misidentified half its contents, and allowed the rind of one sloppy wedge to smear back and forth against the lid. [...] Changing tastes, a fumbling economy, rising competition, and an even more inflated ego ([Executive chef, founder and owner Georges] Perrier's) have all played a role in the demise of what was the premier showpiece of Philadelphia [and a premier showpiece of U.S.] dining for an incredible four decades.O tempora! O mores! RTW Sad T here.